Removing a reluctant chuck from an ML7

[Dragon]

Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
to remove chucks on mine.
After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
with my hand.
So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
without risk to the back gears?

Henry

[mark]

Post by Dragon
Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
to remove chucks on mine.
After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
with my hand.
So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
without risk to the back gears?
Henry

Yes there is ...
My south bend came with an expanding cranked handle that you fit into
the spindle tube at the gear end...it's a manual turning attachment.

Now, if I was to put the handle resting on blocks of wood ....you get
the idea ..

Will get you pics, if you so wish ...

Also, You can get expanding floor plugs ....the sort, that are meant
for holding machines down ........they also make a rubber type
ones ...ltttle less harsh....you could rig something up out of those..

All other methods...i think.... are not as direct acting....or could
be more damaging.

all the best..markj

[ravensworth2674]

Post by mark

Post by Dragon
Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
to remove chucks on mine.
After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
with my hand.
So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
without risk to the back gears?
Henry

Yes there is ...
My south bend came with an expanding cranked handle that you fit into
the spindle tube at the gear end...it's a manual turning attachment.
Now, if I was to put the handle resting on blocks of wood ....you get
the idea ..
Will get you pics, if you so wish ...
Also, You can get expanding floor plugs ....the sort, that are meant
for holding machines down ........they also make a rubber type
ones ...ltttle less harsh....you could rig something up out of those..
All other methods...i think.... are not as direct acting....or could
be  more damaging.
all the best..markj

You have a ML7 and the list of improvements and help in solving simple
day to day problems like stuck chucks is only a minute fraction. There
is at least two 'mandrel handles' published and legion about chucks.
Really, a beginner must have a ready suppy of information.There is a
kit for the handle dedicated ro the ML7 and Super 7's.
I feel that you should get around to having the books in your
possesion.
I am not the only one who has attempted- and failed to get information
on the internet.

Isn't it rather like having a car but being unwilling to pay for some
fuel to go in it?

Norm

[Dragon]

Thanks to Mark and Norm for drawing my attention to the mandrel handle.
I was aware of that device but have not found a need/use for it so far.
It never occurred to me that it would hold well enough to remove a chuck.
another thing to add to the list of things to do!
Norm, I don't have 'all' the books but am not completely without.
Sparey's Amatuer's Lathe and Ian Bradley's Amateur's Workshop are my usual
references and I had them before the Internet was widely available.
The question about broken back gears triggered this thread.
I've benefitted from other's questions - I wonder how many have done so from
mine?

Henry

[Peter Neill]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
to remove chucks on mine.
After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
with my hand.
So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
without risk to the back gears?
Henry

I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
batten strikes the bed.
A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.

I haven't had to do this for quite a while though, as since the first
few times I now always make sure that both threads are clean and
lightly oiled before a chuck goes on.

Peter

[Chris Edwards]

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:11:33 +0100, Peter Neill

Post by Peter Neill
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
to remove chucks on mine.
After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
with my hand.
So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
without risk to the back gears?
Henry

I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
batten strikes the bed.
A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.
I haven't had to do this for quite a while though, as since the first
few times I now always make sure that both threads are clean and
lightly oiled before a chuck goes on.
Peter

and, if I remember rightly, that's the Myford recommended way, too. I
think it's in the handbook somewhere.
--

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"

[Peter]

Post by Chris Edwards

Post by Peter Neill
I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
batten strikes the bed.
A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.
I haven't had to do this for quite a while though, as since the first
few times I now always make sure that both threads are clean and
lightly oiled before a chuck goes on.
Peter

and, if I remember rightly, that's the Myford recommended way, too. I
think it's in the handbook somewhere.

Yes, a bit of 2 x 1 (say 10" long) is very handy.
My 3-jaw usually gets stuck after a parting dig in 8-(

Peter

[Dragon]

Post by Chris Edwards
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:11:33 +0100, Peter Neill

Post by Peter Neill
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
to remove chucks on mine.
After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
with my hand.
So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
without risk to the back gears?
Henry

I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
batten strikes the bed.
A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.
I haven't had to do this for quite a while though, as since the first
few times I now always make sure that both threads are clean and
lightly oiled before a chuck goes on.
Peter

and, if I remember rightly, that's the Myford recommended way, too. I
think it's in the handbook somewhere.
--
Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"

Interesting technique - must give it a try.
My lathe came with a green book called :-
ML7 LATHE
notes on
Operation
Installation
and
Maintenance
also
Pictorial Parts List
including Tri-leva
Speed Selector Lathes

No mention of removing chucks though fitting is covered and includes Peter's
technique of cleaning and oiling.

Henry

[David Littlewood]

Post by Peter Neill
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
to remove chucks on mine.
After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
with my hand.
So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
without risk to the back gears?
Henry

I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
batten strikes the bed.
A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.

Worth mentioning - I'm sure you meant this but the OP may not have
understood - that to do this you turn the spindle backwards by pulling
the drive belt upwards. If you do it by grabbing and turning the chuck
it won't achieve anything.

I'm sure that turning with the drive belt would be less prone to slip
than a mandrel handle - I have problems getting mine tight enough to cut
a thread - and certainly it is a lot quicker.

David

[Dragon]

Post by David Littlewood

Post by Peter Neill
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:22:38 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Following the saga of the broken back gears on an ML7, I'll admit using them
to remove chucks on mine.
After engaging back gear I put the chuck key in place and give it a whack
with my hand.
So far as I remember it's never needed anything more drastic.
However supposing that is not enough, is there a way of getting a chuck off
without risk to the back gears?
Henry

I have a shortish length of wooden batten, about 10-12" long, that I
grip in the chuck jaws, then spin the chuck backwards by hand so the
batten strikes the bed.
A couple of impacts and it usually came loose.

Worth mentioning - I'm sure you meant this but the OP may not have
understood - that to do this you turn the spindle backwards by pulling the
drive belt upwards. If you do it by grabbing and turning the chuck it
won't achieve anything.
I'm sure that turning with the drive belt would be less prone to slip than
a mandrel handle - I have problems getting mine tight enough to cut a
thread - and certainly it is a lot quicker.
David
--
David Littlewood

Had little time to play in the workshop this week so a mandrel handle out of
the question so far.
Did find the time to try the wooden batten idea.
Both belts have guards which makes the motor to countershaft inaccessible
and the countershaft to mandrel awkward.
Tried by pulling the countershaft to mandrel belt upwards.
With the belts tensioned I could only move it slowly.
With the tension released there was no drive unless I pulled the belt
outwards and upwards.
Not enough room for me to get enough speed to make that work either.
Must be missing something so looking for enlightenment!

Henry

[Mark Rand]

On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 21:16:13 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Not enough room for me to get enough speed to make that work either.
Must be missing something so looking for enlightenment!
Henry

Enlightenment thusly:-

Myford's recommended practice involves the use of the electric motor in
reverse. This dramatically reduces the likelyhood of trapping fingers between
belt and pulley.


Mark Rand
RTFM

[Dragon]

Post by Mark Rand
On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 21:16:13 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Not enough room for me to get enough speed to make that work either.
Must be missing something so looking for enlightenment!
Henry

Enlightenment thusly:-
Myford's recommended practice involves the use of the electric motor in
reverse. This dramatically reduces the likelyhood of trapping fingers between
belt and pulley.
Mark Rand
RTFM

Thank ye kindly young sur.
Tis truly a wondrous idea.

What's more it works!
Had spotted the potential for trapping fingers which no doubt inhibited my
puny attempts by hand.

Henry

[Tony Jeffree]

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:53:54 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Had spotted the potential for trapping fingers

Reminds me of the old camel joke...

Regards,
Tony

[Steve]

Post by Tony Jeffree
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:53:54 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Had spotted the potential for trapping fingers

Reminds me of the old camel joke...
Regards,
Tony

Go on then, don't keep us in suspense!

[Chris Edwards]

Post by Steve

Post by Tony Jeffree
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:53:54 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Had spotted the potential for trapping fingers

Reminds me of the old camel joke...
Regards,
Tony

Go on then, don't keep us in suspense!

...groan......no! Don't.....unless it's a new joke about an old camel...?
--

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset) "....there *must* be an easier way!"

[David Powell]

Post by Chris Edwards

Post by Steve

Post by Tony Jeffree
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:53:54 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Had spotted the potential for trapping fingers

Reminds me of the old camel joke...
Regards,
Tony

Go on then, don't keep us in suspense!

...groan......no! Don't.....unless it's a new joke about an old camel...?

Seconded. The only brick joke worth telling is Gerard Hoffnung and the
barrel of bricks. Much more painful.

Regards,

David P.

[Richard Edwards]

Post by Tony Jeffree
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:53:54 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Had spotted the potential for trapping fingers

Reminds me of the old camel joke...
Regards,
Tony

Nah, Thumbs not fingers.

--

Richard

Email address is valid but remove burrs before sending!

[Tony Jeffree]

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:49:52 +0100, Richard Edwards

Post by Richard Edwards

Post by Tony Jeffree
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:53:54 +0100, "Dragon"

Post by Dragon
Had spotted the potential for trapping fingers

Reminds me of the old camel joke...
Regards,
Tony

Nah, Thumbs not fingers.

Close enough though...

Regards,
Tony

[Peter Blair]

replying to Mark Rand, Peter Blair wrote:
I know this is an old message but I am in the group that at present has a ML7
dedicated to using a three Jaw chuck! I have tried an impact gun and the
wooden stick but don't really understand using the motor in reverse. I mean I
know how to reverse it but how exactly does one use it to remove a stuck chuck.

--
for full context, visit http://www.polytechforum.com/modelengineering/removing-a-reluctant-chuck-from-an-ml7-4658-.htm

[Mark Rand]

On Mon, 09 Oct 2017 04:18:04 GMT, Peter Blair

Post by Peter Blair
I know this is an old message but I am in the group that at present has a ML7
dedicated to using a three Jaw chuck! I have tried an impact gun and the
wooden stick but don't really understand using the motor in reverse. I mean I
know how to reverse it but how exactly does one use it to remove a stuck chuck.

Place a bit of wood on the rear shear of the lathe so that a chuck jaw will
strike it if the chuck is turned backwards. now engage belts, backgear etc and
turn the motor on in reverse. Chuck jaw strikes piece of wood and chuck stops
turning. Lathe mandrel keeps turning in reverse. Chuck gets unscrewed.

Another method you can try is to engage backgear, tighten belts, clutch etc as
appropriate. and, with the motor off, grip a chuck jaw with a large adjustable
spanner. Then hit the spanner firmly with the heel of your palm or a wooden
mallet.

Mark Rand

[Peter Blair]

replying to Mark Rand, Peter Blair wrote:
Thanks Mark. I have tried almost all methods here except turning the lathe in
reverse. I am hesitant to try anything with the back gears engaged after
reading about so many lathes with missing teeth?

--
for full context, visit http://www.polytechforum.com/modelengineering/removing-a-reluctant-chuck-from-an-ml7-4658-.htm

[Scott M]

Post by Peter Blair
Thanks Mark. I have tried almost all methods here except turning the lathe in
reverse. I am hesitant to try anything with the back gears engaged after
reading about so many lathes with missing teeth?

Unless it's really, really jammed you shouldn't need to run the motor.
Just engage back gear and then pull the drive belt in reverse by hand -
works on my M-Type.

[j***@gmail.com]

Post by Scott M

Post by Peter Blair
Thanks Mark. I have tried almost all methods here except turning the lathe in
reverse. I am hesitant to try anything with the back gears engaged after
reading about so many lathes with missing teeth?

Unless it's really, really jammed you shouldn't need to run the motor.
Just engage back gear and then pull the drive belt in reverse by hand -
works on my M-Type.
--
Scott
Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

I found a method on youtube, open the cover and slide a boa-grip or similar over the larger gear and use a wrench on the jaw. Worked fine after I found a good grip supplier