Myford ML10

[John]

Hello.
What can people tell me about the ML10, what to look out for its
disadvantages etc.
Thanks.
John.

[Jim Guthrie]

On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 11:51:42 GMT, "John" <***@msn.com> wrote:

John,

Post by John
What can people tell me about the ML10, what to look out for its
disadvantages etc.

Production has been discontinued but Myford still give full support with spares,
etc.

Possible disadvangages are

* No gap in bed so maximum turning size over the bed is 3 1/4" radius. This
can be a problem for model engineers who want to occasionally turn large(r)
diameter items.

* The original ML10 had comparatively low top mandrel speeds which made turning
small diameter material a bit difficult. The later Speed 10 and Diamond 10
versions had double the mandrel speed which improved matters

* As supplied, the original ML10 had a 'short' cross-slide which was a bit
cramped when using a back toolpost. Myford supply an upgrade kit which gives an
extra slot on the cross-slide which makes setups a whole lot easier.

* No tumbler reverse on the leadscrew feed.

* The maximum length between centres could be a bit longer since things can get
a bit cramped with a chuck in the headstock and something like a 1/2" drill in
the tailstock, but they did make a long bed version (they had a re-conditioned
one on the Myford stand at the Bristol show).

* (Personal one) The rack feed of the cross-slide is accomplished by having a
16T gear in mesh with the leadscrew. This doubles as a thread indicator but
the gearing of the arrangement, with a smallish handle, makes use of the rack
feature a bit difficult and I tend to do a lot of cross-slide movement using the
leadscrew.

I can't think of any more :-) I've had my original ML10 for well over 30 years
(it was bought during Ted Heath's three day weeks) and it has worked extremely
well for everything I've used it for. It can use a lot of the Myford
accessories, and has it's specific accessories like fixed and travelling
steadies. The original lathe has plain steel in cast iron bearings which do
need to be looked after. I actually ran the bearings in my countershaft early
on in the life of the lathe due to forgetting to lubricate it. I fitted wick
feed lubricators to the headstock bearings to try and avoid forgetfulness and
try and remember the countershaft. I probably over-lubricate it as the
vertical line down the wall behind the lathe shows :-)

I would say that the lathe is a very good buy. You can move it around by
yourself if you strip off some bits, and the bed looks as though it would be an
easy matter to re-grind if you ever thought of having that done.

If you're looking at buying a secondhand one, I would check out the headstock
and countershaft bearings if it is an original ML10. If well looked after,
they should be OK (I still haven't had to adjust my headstock bearings in 30+
years), but if there's any play then get a bit worried since that might be a
sign of the bearings being shot and I think that means a replacement headstock
and mandrel.

Jim.

[Weldinpatt]

Surely replacement bearings don’t mean the headstock and mandrel need replacing too

[Peter Fairbrother]

Surely replacement bearings don't mean the headstock and mandrel need
replacing too.

Early ML10s, also known as plain bearing ML10s, had bearings which were
machined into the headstock, and so afaik yes, if they got bollixed you
probably had to replace the headstock. If by mandrel you mean the main
spindle, it depends on what's broken.

The spindle is very (!) hard steel running in cast iron bearings which
are part of the headstock, so the spindle may be ok even if the bearings
are not. Or vice-versa.

I'm pretty sure the plain bearing lathes use a different spindle than
the taper roller bearing lathes (see below), bimbw.

Damage to the bearings/spindle is very rare though, it's a good system
for its time.

Keep them lubed and rust-free. Myford's manual says to lube every 4
hours of use, but that may be overly cautious unless you are running at
high speed.

And don't remove the shims! If you have to remove the spindle eg to fit
a new belt then you can loosen the bearing cap bolts half a turn but
leave the bolts in.



If you are thinking of buying an early plain bearing ML10 then check if
the bearings are OK and that the shims are fitted, and if so don't worry
about it ever again (except for frequent lubing).



Later ML10s (I have 2) - known as taper roller bearing ML10s, from iirc
the late 70's on - have taper roller bearings which can be replaced
fairly easily.

Fsvo "fairly easily", think puller or hydraulic press..

..or lump hammer. :)


Peter Fairbrother

[Mike D]

Here is a useful link with lots of pctures & Data, choose the ML10 link.
the others are worth a look also
Mike
http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford/index.html


"John" <***@msn.com> wrote in message news:ijETd.143397$***@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
Hello.
What can people tell me about the ML10, what to look out for its
disadvantages etc.
Thanks.
John.

[John]

Many thanks guys.
A lot of information to get through for a beginner, but getting there.
How much should one be paying for a good condition ML10 and tooling?
Thanks.
John.

Post by Mike D
Here is a useful link with lots of pctures & Data, choose the ML10 link.
the others are worth a look also
Mike
http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford/index.html
Hello.
What can people tell me about the ML10, what to look out for its
disadvantages etc.
Thanks.
John.

[Jim Guthrie]

On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 17:17:10 GMT, "John" <***@msn.com> wrote:

John,

Post by John
How much should one be paying for a good condition ML10 and tooling?

In the region of £500+ for an original ML10 and about £700+ for Speed or Diamond
10s, but prices might go higher depending on whether it's a long bed or how
much tooling is included - a couple of Myford vertical slides could add £100+ to
the basic price. That's based on adverts I've seen and I keep an eye on ML10
prices to give me an idea of what my asset might be worth :-)

Handy accessories to look out for are the raising blocks and drip tray, and the
leadscrew clutch, and a graduated ring for the leadscrew hand wheel. You can
get these from Myford new, but should be much cheaper bundled with a second
hand machine.

The re-conditioned long bed ML10 on Myford's stand at Bristol had a price into
the thousands - I think I remember it being £1500.

Jim.

[Prepair Ltd]

Post by John
Many thanks guys.
A lot of information to get through for a beginner, but getting there.
How much should one be paying for a good condition ML10 and tooling?
Thanks.
John.

Unless you are going to restrict yourself to small stuff, and I have
no problem with that, you would do well to look into larger machines
that do not attract such a price premium.

Lathes that are still worthy tools include the Raglan Littlejohn and
Raglan 5" (my personal favourite, although I only have a Littlejohn
here at work) and the Boxfords.

Nothing worse than paying a lot for a machine and finding out
afterwards that you can't expand into larger models or whatever
because the lathe is too small...


Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
***@easynet.co.uk
http://www.prepair.co.uk

[John]

By the looks of it the Raglan will be even further from my budget LOL.

Peter, wish I had found your site a few months ago, took me ages to find 20
off chargers that would charge 6 bank at a time (deep cycle Hoppeke stuff).

I have to admit, I agree with you guys concerning up sizing but there is
always that big BUT.
John.

Post by Prepair Ltd

Post by John
Many thanks guys.
A lot of information to get through for a beginner, but getting there.
How much should one be paying for a good condition ML10 and tooling?
Thanks.
John.

Unless you are going to restrict yourself to small stuff, and I have
no problem with that, you would do well to look into larger machines
that do not attract such a price premium.
Lathes that are still worthy tools include the Raglan Littlejohn and
Raglan 5" (my personal favourite, although I only have a Littlejohn
here at work) and the Boxfords.
Nothing worse than paying a lot for a machine and finding out
afterwards that you can't expand into larger models or whatever
because the lathe is too small...
Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
http://www.prepair.co.uk

[Peter A Forbes]

Post by John
By the looks of it the Raglan will be even further from my budget LOL.
Peter, wish I had found your site a few months ago, took me ages to find 20
off chargers that would charge 6 bank at a time (deep cycle Hoppeke stuff).
I have to admit, I agree with you guys concerning up sizing but there is
always that big BUT.
John.

We have a lot of chargers on Hoppecke nicads around the country, shame they
didn't put you in touch ! :-)

You's be surprised that Littlejohns and 5" Raglans would go below your budget
price most of the time, Arthur Griffin bought an ex-college unit with tooling
for a very reasonable price, and I was able to collect it for him and get it up
to north-west Wales where he works for him to transport from there onwards.

Basic Littlejohns start at about £300, the later 5" at £500, both have 10" swing
and better still are fitted with replaceable taper roller bearings in the
headstock which can be replaced quite easily.

You do need to look around a LOT before buying, and ask around, people like the
newsgroup guys and also look on Chris Heapy's website and also the newer one
that John Stevenson and Charles Ping started up.

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: ***@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

[Arthur Griffin & Jeni Stanton]

Post by Peter A Forbes
You's be surprised that Littlejohns and 5" Raglans would go below your budget
price most of the time, Arthur Griffin bought an ex-college unit with tooling
for a very reasonable price, and I was able to collect it for him and get it up
to north-west Wales where he works for him to transport from there onwards.

Who's this Arthur Griffin, then? The name's familiar............

Confirming what Peter says, my Raglan 5" was far cheaper than the likes of a Myford S7, with all of the facilities plus
a bit, greater capacity and a good range of tooling. I can also confirm his kindness in the transport department.
Thanks again, Peter. I can't imagine the space taken up by a Raglan or Boxford would be much more than a Myford. Watch
out for three-phase motors if you pursue this course, though.

Having only previously used a Harrison with 6" centre height , and finding the Raglan 5" a little limited at times, the
limitations of of a 3 1/4" centre height fill me with dread. I hasten to add I have no experience of using Myford
products and await the outraged response with interest. ;-)

Regards,
Arthur G

[Nigel Eaton]

Post by Arthur Griffin & Jeni Stanton
Having only previously used a Harrison with 6" centre height , and
finding the Raglan 5" a little limited at times, the
limitations of of a 3 1/4" centre height fill me with dread. I hasten
to add I have no experience of using Myford
products and await the outraged response with interest. ;-)

I had an ML7 sitting next to my Chipmaster for a couple of years. It was
only when I realised that I hadn't switched it on for a couple of years
that I decided to s... se... s... sell (there, said it!) the thing.

[John Stevenson]

On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 22:39:42 +0000, Nigel Eaton

Post by Nigel Eaton

Post by Arthur Griffin & Jeni Stanton
Having only previously used a Harrison with 6" centre height , and
finding the Raglan 5" a little limited at times, the
limitations of of a 3 1/4" centre height fill me with dread. I hasten
to add I have no experience of using Myford
products and await the outraged response with interest. ;-)

I had an ML7 sitting next to my Chipmaster for a couple of years. It was
only when I realised that I hadn't switched it on for a couple of years
that I decided to s... se... s... sell (there, said it!) the thing.

Chip off the old block ?

--
Regards,

John Stevenson
Nottingham, England.

Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:-
http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/

[Jim Guthrie]

On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 22:25:09 -0000, "Arthur Griffin & Jeni Stanton"
<***@cilnant.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:

Arthur,

Post by Arthur Griffin & Jeni Stanton
Having only previously used a Harrison with 6" centre height , and finding the Raglan 5" a little limited at times, the
limitations of of a 3 1/4" centre height fill me with dread. I hasten to add I have no experience of using Myford
products and await the outraged response with interest. ;-)

Not outraged :-)

But I haven't found the centre height a problem over the years - but
I'm not building, for example, larger scale traction engines or steam
locomotives with large diameter wheels. I got the lathe to do
relatively small scale work - 1/2" scale and under - and for that
work it has more than adequate capacity. I think you might be hard
pressed to make most larger scale models on the ML10.

The lathe was designed to a (low) price and I was able to (just)
afford it new after suffering for years with my first lathe - a well
worn ML2. I suspect that if a gap had been designed into the bed,
then the design of the bed casting would have had to have been much
more complex and probably pushed the cost up considerably.. And up
till I got my Centec a year or two ago, I did all my milling on it as
well with no problems excepting the setting up hassle.

It does what it says on the box :-)

Jim.

[Brian Drummond]

On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 13:56:27 +0000 (UTC), Peter A Forbes

Post by Peter A Forbes
You's be surprised that Littlejohns and 5" Raglans would go below your budget
price most of the time, Arthur Griffin bought an ex-college unit with tooling
for a very reasonable price, and I was able to collect it for him and get it up
to north-west Wales where he works for him to transport from there onwards.

They also have a Yahoo! group
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/RaglanMachineTools/
which should help providing support, advice, etc, plus the folks there
may know of an example for sale. I know they discuss Raglans on eBay
quite frequently.

Another possible contender for the ML10 (if you don't need the extra
size of the Raglan) might be a Drummond/Myford "M" lathe, you can
sometimes find a good example for 200 quid or so. Again, there's a Yahoo
group - http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/drummondlathe/

- Brian

[John]

Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm

Thanks.
John.

Post by Brian Drummond
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 13:56:27 +0000 (UTC), Peter A Forbes

Post by Peter A Forbes
You's be surprised that Littlejohns and 5" Raglans would go below your budget
price most of the time, Arthur Griffin bought an ex-college unit with tooling
for a very reasonable price, and I was able to collect it for him and get it up
to north-west Wales where he works for him to transport from there onwards.

They also have a Yahoo! group
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/RaglanMachineTools/
which should help providing support, advice, etc, plus the folks there
may know of an example for sale. I know they discuss Raglans on eBay
quite frequently.
Another possible contender for the ML10 (if you don't need the extra
size of the Raglan) might be a Drummond/Myford "M" lathe, you can
sometimes find a good example for 200 quid or so. Again, there's a Yahoo
group - http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/drummondlathe/
- Brian

[Prepair Ltd]

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm
Thanks.
John.

This subject has been thrashed around here many times over the years,
go to Google / Groups and enter this newsgroup in the newsgroup box,
then do a search for Warco or Chester.

You will have more hours reading than you have time for....:-))


Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
***@easynet.co.uk
http://www.prepair.co.uk

[John]

Cor you aint kidding.
From the threads that I have read and looking at the two major mini-lathe
webs, they would also fit the bill, providing I re-build the 'kit'.
John.

Post by Prepair Ltd

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm
Thanks.
John.

This subject has been thrashed around here many times over the years,
go to Google / Groups and enter this newsgroup in the newsgroup box,
then do a search for Warco or Chester.
You will have more hours reading than you have time for....:-))
Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
http://www.prepair.co.uk

[Donald]

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm

I expect what you want is what you intend to do. Secondhand Myfords are
not that cheap but they are versatile. I have an ML7 now over 40 years old
which has recovered it's cost many times over.

A few years ago I bought a secondhand Portass S for 120 or so pounds. No
particular reason other than what I had thought about when I bought the
Myford. The Portass is fairly primitive but presents a challenge and I use
it a lot and it can produce accurate work. It too has recouped it's cost
many many times over.

I also have a Dore Westbury Mill built from what was in modern terms a
fairly expensive kit. Notwithstanding this the Mill is versatile and does
accurate work and has recouped it's cost.

There are times when I wish I had larger lathes but having said this there
are those who have come to me having been to those with such machines who
could not do the job.

I'd better shut up now before I talk about firmer calipers and fits.

Donald South UIst

[bolmas]

i bought a chester conquest minilathe about 3 yrs ago as it was all
could afford. with the money i spent on it i would have been bette
saving my money and buying an ML10. i wouldnt buy another chines
lathe

--
bolma
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
bolmas's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=2926
View this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=10906

[John]

ML10 it is then.
Thanks Guys.

i bought a chester conquest minilathe about 3 yrs ago as it was all i
could afford. with the money i spent on it i would have been better
saving my money and buying an ML10. i wouldnt buy another chinese
lathe!
--
bolmas
------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=29260
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=109068

[Jim Guthrie]

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 16:51:20 GMT, "John" <***@msn.com> wrote:

John,

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm

At the last Bristol ME exhibition, I went round all the equipment
stands and had a play with the machines. When I compared the feel
of the far East machines with the UK machines - like the reconditioned
long bed ML10 I mentioned earlier - there was no comparison. The UK
made machines were so much smoother to operate and I would prefer than
kind of feel.

Jim.

[m***@telus.net]

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm
Thanks.
John.

I just took delivery of one of these Warco/Chester (SIEG in China)
mini-lathes from Cummins Industrial in the US. Came with 3" 3 jaw ,
faceplate, 4 position toolpost, tailstock chuck, dead centre, set of 5
carbide insert tools, travelling steady, fixed steady, set of allen
keys and spanners for the machine. It has the DC motor and found it
will, on low range, turn VERY slowly indeed.
Yes, I will have to "tune" it, but for the USD 400 I paid for it, plus
USD60 for freight and CAN$70 in GST/PST (your VAT), I do believe I
have a good deal that will serve me well.
For those who have one of these, I would recommend these sites:
http://www.mini-lathe.com/
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/
http://silent1.home.netcom.com/7x12_fixes.htm
http://www.stirlingsteele.com/latheplans.html

The Little Machine Shop site offers a free d/l of a re-written manual
for these machines, which is well worthwhile.
Myfords are not too thick on the ground in Canada and those which are
are WAY overpriced.
Mike in BC, Canada

[j***@boltblue.com]

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini
lathes as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm

Shameless plug mode on>>>
I have a very good Boxford on John/Charles' site (Chris Heapy's too) which
is still available...<<< Mode off

I second the bit about the feel of the old British kit versus the Chinese
new ones - ugghhh!! horrible.
-----------------------------------------------------------
***@boltblue.com
-----------------------------------------------------------

[Mike H]

Post by j***@boltblue.com
Shameless plug mode on>>>
I have a very good Boxford on John/Charles' site (Chris Heapy's too) which
is still available...<<< Mode off

My first lathe was a Boxford and I have fond memories of it. For someone
who had never ever before cut metal it turned out to be an excellent and
very forgiving beginners choice.

[Prepair Ltd]

On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 23:51:13 +0000, Mike H

Post by Mike H

Post by j***@boltblue.com
Shameless plug mode on>>>
I have a very good Boxford on John/Charles' site (Chris Heapy's too) which
is still available...<<< Mode off

My first lathe was a Boxford and I have fond memories of it. For someone
who had never ever before cut metal it turned out to be an excellent and
very forgiving beginners choice.

First one I used at school was a Smart & Brown, set up mainly for
collets, plus there was a single Harrison and two Myfords.

Preferred the Harrison myself, it was a nice machine, the Myfords were
all fiddly and lots of bits to dig yourself on!!

First personal lathe was a Raglan Littlejohn which I bought in the
early 1970's and still have here at the factory.


Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
***@easynet.co.uk
http://www.prepair.co.uk

[John]

So am off to see a Myford tomorrow, apparently has a couple of minor faults
that are reflected in the price!.
When I return will try to ascertain the implications before buying.

John.

Post by Prepair Ltd
On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 23:51:13 +0000, Mike H

Post by Mike H

Post by j***@boltblue.com
Shameless plug mode on>>>
I have a very good Boxford on John/Charles' site (Chris Heapy's too) which
is still available...<<< Mode off

My first lathe was a Boxford and I have fond memories of it. For someone
who had never ever before cut metal it turned out to be an excellent and
very forgiving beginners choice.

First one I used at school was a Smart & Brown, set up mainly for
collets, plus there was a single Harrison and two Myfords.
Preferred the Harrison myself, it was a nice machine, the Myfords were
all fiddly and lots of bits to dig yourself on!!
First personal lathe was a Raglan Littlejohn which I bought in the
early 1970's and still have here at the factory.
Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
http://www.prepair.co.uk

[Brian Drummond]

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm

Allegedly the smallest ones ("7x10" as the Americans call them) aren't
bad for the price. There's something to be said for getting one of these
to get experience, while keeping an eye open for the right secondhand
bargain to come along.

Then the little lathe comes into its own making spares for the
"bargain", until the latter has a quorum of working parts!

Plus it's often useful for small jobs without tearing down some
elaborate setup on the bigger lathe...

- Brian

[John]

So been to see the ML10 tonight.
The back gear pair each has a tooth missing, the bed seems ok, the cross
slide and top slide seem ok, but needs adjustment. The headstock and
countershaft bearings seem ok.
Has an upright slide, 3 jaw chuck, small 4 jaw and a 4 jaw that's too big.
Has face plate and two male centres. And some adjustable Myford tool bits
and a spare motor.
Paint is good, some damage to top surface of bed around chuck area.
SN is V15 so should be capable of 10 speed and have the longer bed.
Finally where can I post a picture of the damaged teeth.
Oh yeh, price £150
John.

Post by Brian Drummond

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm

Allegedly the smallest ones ("7x10" as the Americans call them) aren't
bad for the price. There's something to be said for getting one of these
to get experience, while keeping an eye open for the right secondhand
bargain to come along.
Then the little lathe comes into its own making spares for the
"bargain", until the latter has a quorum of working parts!
Plus it's often useful for small jobs without tearing down some
elaborate setup on the bigger lathe...
- Brian

[Nigel Eaton]

Post by John
So been to see the ML10 tonight.
The back gear pair each has a tooth missing, the bed seems ok, the cross
slide and top slide seem ok, but needs adjustment. The headstock and
countershaft bearings seem ok.
Has an upright slide, 3 jaw chuck, small 4 jaw and a 4 jaw that's too big.
Has face plate and two male centres. And some adjustable Myford tool bits
and a spare motor.
Paint is good, some damage to top surface of bed around chuck area.
SN is V15 so should be capable of 10 speed and have the longer bed.
Finally where can I post a picture of the damaged teeth.
Oh yeh, price £150

Pretty much *anything* is worth £150. Buy it. Now.

Any lathe is better than no lathe, and £150 will get you up and running.

Buy it. Now.

If you don't want it, I'll have it. ;^)

[Tony Jeffree]

On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 21:45:43 +0000, Nigel Eaton

Post by Nigel Eaton

Post by John
So been to see the ML10 tonight.
The back gear pair each has a tooth missing, the bed seems ok, the cross
slide and top slide seem ok, but needs adjustment. The headstock and
countershaft bearings seem ok.
Has an upright slide, 3 jaw chuck, small 4 jaw and a 4 jaw that's too big.
Has face plate and two male centres. And some adjustable Myford tool bits
and a spare motor.
Paint is good, some damage to top surface of bed around chuck area.
SN is V15 so should be capable of 10 speed and have the longer bed.
Finally where can I post a picture of the damaged teeth.
Oh yeh, price £150

Pretty much *anything* is worth £150. Buy it. Now.
Any lathe is better than no lathe, and £150 will get you up and running.
Buy it. Now.
If you don't want it, I'll have it. ;^)

Not if I get there first ;-)

The chucks/faceplate/motor/vertical slide on their own would probably
fetch more than 150 on ebay...

Regards,
Tony

[Nigel Eaton]

Post by Tony Jeffree
On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 21:45:43 +0000, Nigel Eaton

Post by Nigel Eaton

Post by John
So been to see the ML10 tonight.
The back gear pair each has a tooth missing, the bed seems ok, the cross
slide and top slide seem ok, but needs adjustment. The headstock and
countershaft bearings seem ok.
Has an upright slide, 3 jaw chuck, small 4 jaw and a 4 jaw that's too big.
Has face plate and two male centres. And some adjustable Myford tool bits
and a spare motor.
Paint is good, some damage to top surface of bed around chuck area.
SN is V15 so should be capable of 10 speed and have the longer bed.
Finally where can I post a picture of the damaged teeth.
Oh yeh, price £150

Pretty much *anything* is worth £150. Buy it. Now.
Any lathe is better than no lathe, and £150 will get you up and running.
Buy it. Now.
If you don't want it, I'll have it. ;^)

Not if I get there first ;-)
The chucks/faceplate/motor/vertical slide on their own would probably
fetch more than 150 on ebay...

<pins Order Of The Cynical Trader First Class With Oak Leaves And
Crossed Spanners to Tony's overalls>

[John Stevenson]

Post by John
So been to see the ML10 tonight.
The back gear pair each has a tooth missing, the bed seems ok, the cross
slide and top slide seem ok, but needs adjustment. The headstock and
countershaft bearings seem ok.
Has an upright slide, 3 jaw chuck, small 4 jaw and a 4 jaw that's too big.
Has face plate and two male centres. And some adjustable Myford tool bits
and a spare motor.
Paint is good, some damage to top surface of bed around chuck area.
SN is V15 so should be capable of 10 speed and have the longer bed.
Finally where can I post a picture of the damaged teeth.
Oh yeh, price £150
John.

Where did you say it was ??

Post by John

Post by Brian Drummond

Post by John
Appreciate the help guys, I have a more defined idea of what I want now.
What do you guys think (no bad language please) or the far east Mini lathes
as sold by these.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/minilathe.htm
http://www.chesteruk.net/Conquest%20Lathe%20Specification.htm

Allegedly the smallest ones ("7x10" as the Americans call them) aren't
bad for the price. There's something to be said for getting one of these
to get experience, while keeping an eye open for the right secondhand
bargain to come along.
Then the little lathe comes into its own making spares for the
"bargain", until the latter has a quorum of working parts!
Plus it's often useful for small jobs without tearing down some
elaborate setup on the bigger lathe...
- Brian

--
Regards,

John Stevenson
Nottingham, England.

Visit the new Model Engineering adverts page at:-
http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/

[Jim Guthrie]

On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:00:38 GMT, "John" <***@msn.com> wrote:

John,

Post by John
So been to see the ML10 tonight.
The back gear pair each has a tooth missing, the bed seems ok, the cross
slide and top slide seem ok, but needs adjustment. The headstock and
countershaft bearings seem ok.
Has an upright slide, 3 jaw chuck, small 4 jaw and a 4 jaw that's too big.
Has face plate and two male centres. And some adjustable Myford tool bits
and a spare motor.
Paint is good, some damage to top surface of bed around chuck area.
SN is V15 so should be capable of 10 speed and have the longer bed.
Finally where can I post a picture of the damaged teeth.
Oh yeh, price £150

Bite his hand off :-)

The back gear pair should be replaceable from Myford. I'm wondering how the
teeth got broken - someone might have been using the backgear to lock the
mandrel when applying a lot of pressure to the mandrel.

I suspect that the chucks will be the 'standards' usually provided for the ML10
- a Burnerd 3 jaw with internal thread and a backplate fitted Burnerd 4 jaw. In
good condition, those chucks and the vertical slide would be worth about £150
:-)

Damage to the top of the bed at the chuck end is pretty normal I would think -
guess who also has some dings on the bed :-) But such a large flat area shows
every mark. (That's another plus for the ML10 - built in surface plate on the
bed which I've used many times).

If it's a long bed version, there could be a queue forming :-)

Try and get the special Allen key for releasing the backgear lock on the mandrel
if it is still with the lathe. It has the short bit bent at about 45 degrees
with a length much shorter than the normal Allen key and it's the only key that
can get between the bull wheel and the front headstock bearing to get at the
locking dog. Also doubles up as the key which releases the topslide locking
screws and all the gib screws. Arguably, it's the most invaluable tool with
the lathe :-)

Jim.

[Jim Guthrie]

Post by Jim Guthrie
Also doubles up as the key which releases the topslide locking
screws and all the gib screws. Arguably, it's the most invaluable tool with
the lathe :-)

Bit of brain fade there :-) The screws clamping the topslide have square heads
and require a spanner - not an Allen key. Posting too early in the morning :-)

Jim.